Here's the scoop on how to choose your hair dye

Coloring our hair is not just an act of vanity; it’s a form of self-expression that offers wide scale options. For some, confidence comes not from funky patterns and wild styles, but from a faux-natural, beautiful shade to suit their preferences or personality. Born blondes disguise themselves as luxurious redheads, and brunettes treat themselves to fun, beachy highlights. As we age, men and women alike sometimes prefer their life-long lock hues to silver, salt & pepper, or ash and begin using dye for the first time—not to feel like someone different, but to feel like themselves again. The best box hair dye can offer a lot more than just a stand-out statement and punk rock vibes, but first you need to know which type of hair dye to buy, for either occasion.

Before you begin shopping, there are two important pieces of information to consider. The first is a bit more on the personal, self-spiritual side, and the second is much more scientific.

For the former, begin by asking yourself why you are buying hair dye. This may not be a very philosophical step in the process for everyone, but the question is important nonetheless. You should always choose a hair dye based on your objectives. While the box labels of “for men” or “for women” really only matter when it comes to facial hair, certain dyes are truly better formulated for certain types of coverage. The head of hair that is looking to restore its natural color from greying strands will likely need a different product than the one transitioning from black to blonde.

Other personal points to consider include whether or not you are sensitive, both when it comes to your skin and your sense of smell. Many hair dyes include harsh-smelling chemicals that may be too irritating for hypersensitive sniffers to handle. Also, with all first-time-use hair dyes, it’s highly recommended that you test a small area before applying all over, especially if you already know you have skin sensitivities. As with smell, certain dyes may be easier to tolerate than others, so you’ll want to brush up on the forthcoming science side of selecting a hair dye to help finish choosing the safest product for you.

In total, there are eight major hair dye options on the market today. The most sensitive of these options is a naturally-derived hair ink called henna. This plant-based dye is also often used on the skin, is hypoallergenic, and can actually help soothe a dry, dandruff-ridden scalp. The only real downside is that since henna is natural, it only comes in the one shade, which adds a reddish tint to hair and also helps with hair’s vibrancy and shine. This is a gorgeous option for many shades of hair, however, adding dimension and a glossy finish that can last for a number of washes before fading.

When it comes to the synthetic hair dyes that dominate the consumer market, four of the remaining seven dye options revolve around their staying power and chemical potency. Temporary hair dyes are the least intense option, coating hair strands without penetrating them. This option usually washes out after a single shampoo, though it can leave a bit of a stain for longer if your hair was already damaged before applying the temporary dye.

In the middle are the semi-permanent and demi-permanent hair dyes, which are progressively more potent, though both options are often still ammonia-free, making them far less pungent than other options. Semi-permanent hair dyes often skip the step called “developer,” which instigates the chemical that causes hair dye to penetrate hair shafts. Semi-permanent dye lasts for around 7-10 washes, also making it a great option for light, gray hair coverage in between salon visits. It has a knack for adding gloss and high shine to our hair strands, which makes it another valuable choice for root touch-ups or growing out a noticeable hair color.

The demi-permanent hair dyes, on the other hand, do use a developer, which makes them last around 22 to 25 washes. Of course, this means that the hair dye is making its way deeper into your hair strands, which naturally will cause a bit more damage than alternative options. If you have healthy hair, don’t let this scare you! Strong, thick hair can withstand multiple rounds of penetrating hair dyes, however ill-advised it might be. Demi-permanent hair dyes are a really fantastic option for a number of uses, especially in trying out a color for a significant period of time before diving into a permanent box or salon dye job.

Finally, we have our permanent hair dyes. These selections last for weeks before they show signs of fading and can be used to change your entire hair color lighter or darker. They also provide the best full-head coverage for those looking to cover a lot of gray. Since these chemicals are intense, note that you may want to darken or lighten hair in stages, rather than trying to skip from one end of the scale to the other.

For the remaining three hair dye options, we have highlighting, root coloring, and hair bleaching. Hair bleaching is still technically a part of the world of hair dye, although it is usually used specifically as a step in the process when lightening someone’s naturally very dark hair to something much lighter. It is the harshest hair dye process to treat your hair with, and should be used sparingly, if at all.

Root coloring and highlighting are far less threatening, and often these hair dye packagings provide extra little tools to help implement the color. These comb-like accessories make the job of applying color only where you want it much easier, and they don’t tend to be included with most dye kits that are not specifically for roots or highlighting purposes. These hair dyes also offer great coverage and dimension, ranging from temporary to permanent finishes. Natural hair colors and color-treated hair alike can be enhanced with highlighting options like ombré, balayage, or even lowlights. Both root touch-ups and highlighting are also easier to dye over or cover up, if necessary or desired, since they are not applied to the full head.

Now that you have all of your background hair dye information, try using a professional shade selector like Garnier’s Virtual Color Selector to find product ideas that most suit your needs.

Great brands often carry a very wide range of color options in believable-looking colors, unless they are intentionally providing unnatural options. And they'll give results just as good as if you went to a salon. In either case, shade ranges should be varied. A respectable hair dye will typically also come with sturdy gloves that keep harmful chemicals off of your skin, and an applicator that holds up through the process. Try to apply your dye in a well-ventilated area and remember to condition your newly color treated hair to keep it looking happy and healthy!

Resources — L’Oreal Paris, ConsumerSearch

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